Tuesday, June 16, 2015
Found Boat rudder plans
images taken from various sources for illustration only Boat rudder plans
Free access Boat rudder plans
Saturday, March 21, 2015
Topic Classic small boat plans
Here is a images illustration Classic small boat plans
Get Classic small boat plans
Friday, March 20, 2015
Getting Aluminum boat hull plans
Sample picture only for illustration Aluminum boat hull plans
Free Aluminum boat hull plans
Monday, March 2, 2015
Design 2505 6 Meter Tempest Upgrade
The 6-meter Tempest was constructed in 1986 by Eric Goetz of Rhode Island. After her first owner sold her, she was used as a daysailer for a number of years through two owners. The boat was ultimately purchased and shipped to England. The new owner contacted us and discussed ways to make the boat more competitive.
It was decided to replace the outdated wing keel with a more contemporary design with higher aspect ratio foil and to replace the very large original wings with more efficient winglets. In addition the rudder would be replaced with a much higher aspect foil. In the following image one can see the out dated keel foil, the excessively large wings and the low aspect ratio rudder.
A new keel and winglets was designed and installed. The geometry can be seen as follows:
Sunday, March 1, 2015
Building Molds
My mold material was Spruce - but it seemed very green when delivered to my shop from the sawmill, with moisture content around 18%. So armed with my plans and my GLWB book, I set about assembling the molds. I decided to use biscuit joints to join the boards. John Brooks describes a method of using yard sticks joined together to work out the best angle to optimise the wood lengths. This was confusing initially, because I didnt appreciate the end product, so I stressed over this unnecessarily. I was introduced to the science and trigonometry of using a bevel gauge, transferring it to a Bevel Boss . I railed in my engineering minded friend Bendan to figure out how to transfer the measurements off my BevelBoss to my MitreSaw...
John shows how to create your own Bevel Boss in his book, but this tool has proven to be a very accurate companion for me and I am doubtful if I could have recreated this with the same level of accuracy.
The biscuit joints proved to be insufficient and unnecessary so I ended up adding the blocks to place over the joints. My reason at the time for using biscuit joints was so I could lay the molds accurately down onto the top of the plans.
I became obsessed with accuracy and bought aluminium channel to allow me screw a straight edge over the FSP so that I could align the bottom of the mold on the line which represented the jig side beam.
Accuracy - John had warned me at the workshop about the cone of accuracy - a half millimeter out at one end of the boat could wind up to by 8 millimeters at the other end... perhaps an extreme example, but I got the point and heeded the warning!
Cutting the molds in pairs on my new jig saw proved quite satisfying, but I struggled to understand which marks I needed to transfer to the molds, so I ended up copying the entire plans on to the molds.
When I was finished with the molds, I re-read the introduction on the plans which stated that the boat is built over 7 molds, 3 of which are permanent frames and 4 and just for the jig....I had built 5 out of spruce, so I had missed that in fact #6 was a permanent frame to be built out of marine ply and reinforced with DF cheeks.
It was about 3 months later when one of the molds fell down from the loft in my workshop that the folly of relying on biscuit joints alone was evidenced. So I reinforced each component with an additional brace. Also the full import of the 18% MC of the spruce revealed itself when I saw how nicely warped some of the molds had become when they dried out! That didnt prove to be a problem as I was able to straighten them out when placing them on the strongback / jig.
One mold does deserve special mention - #14. When you come to positioning the transom and the transom knee, you need to cut a section out of the top of the mold to allow the knee sit in its correct place. As I write I dont have the plans in front of me, but I am 90% certain that this is not explicit on the plans. A seasoned boat builder wouldnt think twice, but for a first timer, it took me a while and some advice from Bob to go ahead and cut out the recess.
Read More..
John shows how to create your own Bevel Boss in his book, but this tool has proven to be a very accurate companion for me and I am doubtful if I could have recreated this with the same level of accuracy.
The biscuit joints proved to be insufficient and unnecessary so I ended up adding the blocks to place over the joints. My reason at the time for using biscuit joints was so I could lay the molds accurately down onto the top of the plans.
Accuracy - John had warned me at the workshop about the cone of accuracy - a half millimeter out at one end of the boat could wind up to by 8 millimeters at the other end... perhaps an extreme example, but I got the point and heeded the warning!
Cutting the molds in pairs on my new jig saw proved quite satisfying, but I struggled to understand which marks I needed to transfer to the molds, so I ended up copying the entire plans on to the molds.
When I was finished with the molds, I re-read the introduction on the plans which stated that the boat is built over 7 molds, 3 of which are permanent frames and 4 and just for the jig....I had built 5 out of spruce, so I had missed that in fact #6 was a permanent frame to be built out of marine ply and reinforced with DF cheeks.
It was about 3 months later when one of the molds fell down from the loft in my workshop that the folly of relying on biscuit joints alone was evidenced. So I reinforced each component with an additional brace. Also the full import of the 18% MC of the spruce revealed itself when I saw how nicely warped some of the molds had become when they dried out! That didnt prove to be a problem as I was able to straighten them out when placing them on the strongback / jig.
One mold does deserve special mention - #14. When you come to positioning the transom and the transom knee, you need to cut a section out of the top of the mold to allow the knee sit in its correct place. As I write I dont have the plans in front of me, but I am 90% certain that this is not explicit on the plans. A seasoned boat builder wouldnt think twice, but for a first timer, it took me a while and some advice from Bob to go ahead and cut out the recess.
 |
| This is the mold in action showing how the transom knee sits into the top of the mold. |
Saturday, February 28, 2015
Design 2136 Dida III
Dida III was a development of both design #2058, Morning Cloud II and Cervantes IV, design #2061. She was designed for Admirals Cup competition. She was designed for what would become a repeat client. The boat was constructed of wood by Cantiere Carlini of Italy and launched in 1973. Drafting as shown was by the very talented Johan Valentijn. I apologize for having no images.
Here is the general arrangement plan.
Principal Dimensions
LOA 41-10"
LWL 32-6"
Beam 12-10"
Draft 6-11"
Displacement 20,284 lbs
Ballast 9,700 lbs (outside) 200 lbs (inside)
Sail Area 780 sq ft
LOA 41-10"
LWL 32-6"
Beam 12-10"
Draft 6-11"
Displacement 20,284 lbs
Ballast 9,700 lbs (outside) 200 lbs (inside)
Sail Area 780 sq ft
Lead Smelting
Have to say, I was really looking forward to this... must be the pyromaniac in me!
I gathered scrap lead from a local roofer plus a bucket of wheel weights from my local tyre depot. The tyre weights were a disaster - maybe in the US, "tire" weights are still lead, but in Ireland and presumably all Europe, they all seem to be Zinc or Steel - with a very low percentage of lead. My recommendation is: dont bother with tire or tyre weights............
Anyway, I needed to prepare the scrap lead into ingots, so I bought a burner which had a 8.8KW output - which in hindsight seemed to be slightly under-powered.
My crucible was made from the bottom of an acetylene bottle with two crude handles welded on. In some ways the handles were superfluous because its too heavy to pick up full of molten lead and pour - I resorted to a ladle.
Initially I used bakers molds made of silicon, but they only seemed to last one or two pours before tearing Baking tins are the business! They produced 12Kg ingots flawlessly. Its quite amazing the amount of dross which collects on top of the molten lead, so I am hopeful when I come to pouring the final melt for the keel, I will have clean lead.
The pot at the right of the burner contains dross I cleaned off the molten lead which was quite a staggering amount.
The aluminium sheet on the right was used as a wind shield around the burner. I think had I more insulation around the pot and burner, I would have used less fuel - as it was I used about one and a half cylinders of butane.
The soup strainer was a real cheap item which I thought would have fallen apart, but it worked perfectly as a method of cleaning off the dross on top of the molten lead, showing little signs of stress.
Read More..
I gathered scrap lead from a local roofer plus a bucket of wheel weights from my local tyre depot. The tyre weights were a disaster - maybe in the US, "tire" weights are still lead, but in Ireland and presumably all Europe, they all seem to be Zinc or Steel - with a very low percentage of lead. My recommendation is: dont bother with tire or tyre weights............
Anyway, I needed to prepare the scrap lead into ingots, so I bought a burner which had a 8.8KW output - which in hindsight seemed to be slightly under-powered.
My crucible was made from the bottom of an acetylene bottle with two crude handles welded on. In some ways the handles were superfluous because its too heavy to pick up full of molten lead and pour - I resorted to a ladle.
Initially I used bakers molds made of silicon, but they only seemed to last one or two pours before tearing Baking tins are the business! They produced 12Kg ingots flawlessly. Its quite amazing the amount of dross which collects on top of the molten lead, so I am hopeful when I come to pouring the final melt for the keel, I will have clean lead.
The aluminium sheet on the right was used as a wind shield around the burner. I think had I more insulation around the pot and burner, I would have used less fuel - as it was I used about one and a half cylinders of butane.
The soup strainer was a real cheap item which I thought would have fallen apart, but it worked perfectly as a method of cleaning off the dross on top of the molten lead, showing little signs of stress.
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