Saturday, February 28, 2015
Design 2136 Dida III
Dida III was a development of both design #2058, Morning Cloud II and Cervantes IV, design #2061. She was designed for Admirals Cup competition. She was designed for what would become a repeat client. The boat was constructed of wood by Cantiere Carlini of Italy and launched in 1973. Drafting as shown was by the very talented Johan Valentijn. I apologize for having no images.
Here is the general arrangement plan.
LOA 41-10"
LWL 32-6"
Beam 12-10"
Draft 6-11"
Displacement 20,284 lbs
Ballast 9,700 lbs (outside) 200 lbs (inside)
Sail Area 780 sq ft
Lead Smelting
I gathered scrap lead from a local roofer plus a bucket of wheel weights from my local tyre depot. The tyre weights were a disaster - maybe in the US, "tire" weights are still lead, but in Ireland and presumably all Europe, they all seem to be Zinc or Steel - with a very low percentage of lead. My recommendation is: dont bother with tire or tyre weights............
Anyway, I needed to prepare the scrap lead into ingots, so I bought a burner which had a 8.8KW output - which in hindsight seemed to be slightly under-powered.
My crucible was made from the bottom of an acetylene bottle with two crude handles welded on. In some ways the handles were superfluous because its too heavy to pick up full of molten lead and pour - I resorted to a ladle.
Initially I used bakers molds made of silicon, but they only seemed to last one or two pours before tearing Baking tins are the business! They produced 12Kg ingots flawlessly. Its quite amazing the amount of dross which collects on top of the molten lead, so I am hopeful when I come to pouring the final melt for the keel, I will have clean lead.
The aluminium sheet on the right was used as a wind shield around the burner. I think had I more insulation around the pot and burner, I would have used less fuel - as it was I used about one and a half cylinders of butane.
The soup strainer was a real cheap item which I thought would have fallen apart, but it worked perfectly as a method of cleaning off the dross on top of the molten lead, showing little signs of stress.
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Friday, February 27, 2015
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Thursday, February 26, 2015
More Side Panel Skinning
The port front panel presented a few more difficulties than the starboard panel. This had mostly to do with the lack of space on that side of the boat. I also had some difficulty getting the panel into position because of the curvature required. The front of the panel kept getting hung up on the back wall of the garage.
However, eventually I did get it into position and glued down. The only real difference between this panel and the starboard side is that this panel lays over the end of the starboard panel in the nose. That means that the starboard side panel had to be sanded down flush with the stem first.
Another area I had more difficulty with on this panel was getting the forward most screws in. Like the starboard panel, I had to use air powered angle tools (drill and wrench). But for some reason, the wrench would run out of power before completion of driving the screw so I was forced to get in there and complete that by hand. Needless to say, that was difficult in that I had to drive it down while keeping the driving bit firmly planted in the screw (so that the head wouldnt strip). Afterwards, my arms felt like they had been in a boxing match.
When fitting the panel, I noticed that it did not lay quite flat on the stem. The amount of curvature on the panel in this area is a bit more than is easily handled by the panel. You can see in the next photo the small gap in the center.
After I removed the panel I worked the fairing on the stem a little and this improved the fit, but I was still forced to use some levering action by placing a board against the wall and pulling down on it while driving the screws in. Of course, I couldnt do this by myself and had to enlist the aid of my son.
As mentioned, I eventually succeeded in getting the panel glued into correct position. It gives the boat a new character when both front panels are on.
At this point, the only remaining work on the side panels was to fill in the center section. These were going to require six feet of plywood as well as two backing plates per side. This is the work that I didnt get much done on.
I did get a couple of preliminary fit pictures. The first one illustrates the butt join on the forward end of the center panel. Eventually, there will be a 12 inch wide backing plate (also made from 9mm plywood) glued and screwed to the inside of this joint (as well as the other joint on the aft end). The backing plate needs to extend six inches on each side of the joint (hence the 12 inch width). It will also extend the full length of the join between the sheer and the chine. (approximately 32 inches).
One other aspect of this backing plate is that it needs to conform to the curve of the skin panel. The curve is not excessive but the shortness of the backing plate means that it will be difficult to force into a curve. My concern here is that that stiffness will tend to flatten out the curvature of the skin at the joint. A flat spot would be aesthetically undesirable and might affect the performance of the boat.
I am going to experiment with pre-curving the backing plates before gluing them into position. I have yet to perform this pre-curving and I do not have any photos of them yet.
In the the final photo, you can see that the center panel is trimmed to length and in position but still needs trimming on the chine edge. What I particularly like about this photo, however, is that it shows off the lines of the boat quite nicely.
So as you can see, I dont have a lot to discuss this time around. I will have some more free time after Christmas as well the New Year weekend so I will be trying to get the center sections completed. After they are done, skinning will be on hold for awhile while I complete work on the bottom of the boat.
Several tasks needs to be accomplished on the bottom before I can start adding the skin panels. First, I need to install the battens into the notches in the frames. These notches will need to have limbers added before the battens are installed. The limbers are an area cut out on the outboard side of each notch that will allow water to drain to the aft end of the boat.
In addition to the battens, I need to do a bit more fairing work on the frame bottom edges. And I also need to pre-drill the two drain plug holes in the transom.
All in all, quite a bit of work to accomplish, before the skins can be added. I am still hoping to complete all of this (including the skinning) by the end of February but with the onset of winter and colder weather, I am not sure this will be possible. Well see.
So, that is it for now. I will continue to work the boat and in a couple of weeks, I should be able to show more progress. Until then, take care.
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Thursday, February 19, 2015
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Tuesday, February 3, 2015
Oppikat A Boat for Little People
Design 1757 Carillon
Three boats were built to this design. The first was Carillon, built by Robert E. Derecktor of Mamaroneck, New York. All three were constructed of aluminum. Carillon was launched in 1964.
Heres the second, yacht Alpha, built by Stephens Marine of Stockton, California and launched in 1966. She is identical but with 1,000 lbs of ballast added for the stiffer winds of San Fransisco.
The third was Lightnin, also built by Stephens Marine and launched in 67.
Here are the plans.
Heres an image of a model of Alpha. Its a nice model and shows a lot of deck detail.
LOA 47-5"
LWL 33-0"
Beam 11-9"
Draft 6-9"
Displacement 28,557 lbs
Ballast 11,000 lbs
Sail Area 1,001 sq ft
Bark Canoe Observation
In the small waterfront park just below Old Fort Western, the Maine chapter of the Wooden Canoe Heritage Association had a display with many beautiful boats, mostly canvas-on-cedar. Burt Libby, of Burts Canoes in Litchfield, Maine, had a lovely display of large-scale canoe models (3-4 feet long?), showing the stages of the construction of a cedar/canvas canoe. The association had also borrowed a bark canoe belonging to the Penobscot Marine Museum, and allowed people to paddle it.
The Penobscot Marine Museum had the canoe built for it within the past few years as part of a demonstration that occurred on its grounds in Searsport, Maine. Im sorry that I dont know the builders name, or have any info. on its "type" -- i.e., the cultural/historical style upon which its based. It looked to be very nicely built and it was in apparently fine shape. The sheathing appeared to be very regular beneath the frames, which had surprisingly high cross-sections, which I imagine would have been rather difficult to bend. The seams between bark sections were very neatly done; I believe they were sealed with some kind of plastic sealant rather than a more traditional material like pine rosin.
I paddled the boat for only a few minutes, kneeling in the stern, with another paddler in the bow. The river at that point is flatwater, with a bit of current; I had very little opportunity to get a feel for the boats performance or capabilities, but the impression I got was that it felt and behaved very much like any other wooden canoe of its size and design. It felt quite stiff in a structural (as opposed to a hydrostatic) sense. The high profiles of the frames made them rather painful to kneel on, but thats certainly no fault of design or construction -- its indicative of the paddler not having a proper pad. Having been in storage for a couple years, the canoe leaked a bit, but not excessively, and I expect that the leak would swell itself shut with more frequent use. If not, then its no great matter to seal it. Lifting it from the water onto the floating dock, it felt not particularly light -- comparable to what a heavily-built fiberglass boat of the same size would weigh.
Although the opportunity was very limited, it was still a thrill to paddle a fairly authentic bark canoe. Thanks to the Penobscot Marine Museum and the Wooden Canoe Heritage Association for making it possible.
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Monday, February 2, 2015
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I met a boat builder on the Internet who lived out in Seattle who was building the model boat I wanted to build. I took a trip to Seattle to meet the builder, Bart Samaduroff, and check out the build he was working on. The afternoon spent with Bart turned out to be a great deal on my part as Bart agreed to handle the blasting, priming, and CNC plasma cutting of my metal for what I considered a reasonable fee. The package was a few months late getting to me so Bart handled some good faith negotiating for me and had the vendor pay most of the shipping costs from Seattle to New Richmond, Ohio. I did not ask for this sizable reduction in price, but Bart insisted and I kept hearing that old adage of not looking a gift horse in the mouth. If anyone has the chance to do business with Bart Samaduroff I only have great things to say about him.
The metal package showed up at my shop on a flat bed weighing in at 40,000 lbs. We made the lift off the trailer in two picks using our Cat 312 Excavator, and then spent the next day sorting and checking that all the parts were accounted for and present. Looking back I believe that only one frame member for the Portuguese bridge was missing.
The first step for me in actually starting the physical part of building this boat was to set up the jig that will support the bottom hull plates and the boat as it is being built. I used some 4" H beams for squaring things up and then I welded the building jig to the H beam frame. With the jig welded to the frame the building can now begin.
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I added the corner radius reinforcements to the opening and added short beam extensions to tie the rear beam and carling to the shear. With these bits in place, the improvement in rigidity of the structure is amazing. Im working on the corner radius pieces at the dash and then it will be time to tackle the hatches.Sunday, February 1, 2015
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(King Island kayak from around 1800, replica built by Harvey Golden. Photo courtesy of the builder)Harvey lives in the Pacific Northwest, and has built more than 50 replica boats in the last 15 years. Using a variety of sources, ranging from Adney and Chapelles Bark Canoes and Skin Boats of North America
to personal measurements taken on original boats held by museums, he has replicated every major type (and many of the sub-types) of Arctic kayak known -- several of them more than once. His work appears very authentic, down to the use of lashings versus pegs to hold the wooden frameworks together, as appropriate to the particular boat at hand. Of course he uses synthetic materials in place of the original sealskin, baleen, and similar restricted materials, but the end results are as accurate as can be imagined given the legal limitations and ecological considerations involved.Harvey has kept a great many of the kayaks hes built, and keeps them in the old corner grocery store that constitutes the first floor of his home. From the photo below, which Im using by permission, it seems to be quite a sight.
Harveys research has led to the publication of KAYAKS OF GREENLAND: The History and Development of the Greenlandic Hunting Kayak, 1600-2000, which I havent yet had the pleasure of seeing, but which Ive heard compared favorably to Adneys work on bark canoes. And Harvey is working on two follow-up volumes, on Alaskan and Canadian kayaks. Look over the website of this self-directed, masterful authority. Youll be amazed. He lists every boat hes built, the documentation he used as source material, includes photos of many or all of them (including construction details of several), and has several useful links to other skinboat resources. A virtuoso performance!
On the subject of skinboats: another important source is Skinboats.org, where you can buy just about any kind of construction material, information, or training for building your own skin-on-frame kayak, baidarka, traditional-style kayak paddle, pulling boat, umiak, or "zoomiak" -- a clever variant on the modern hard-bottom-inflatable boat using a skin-on-flame foundation for the inflatable collar.
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